Plumbing 101 – Learning about DIY plumbing with Coach Tim

Watch video! If you planning a plumbing project – this is a must. Watch the full video to learn about Plumbing and the concepts you’ll need to know in your home …


30 thoughts on “Plumbing 101 – Learning about DIY plumbing with Coach Tim”

  1. This guy is torching the valve and sweating the pipe. what is plumbing 102 going to be? Remove the valve cartridge first to sweat ? To prevent the cartridge from heat damage?

  2. I am reminded of when I was a little girl watching my Dad fix stuff around the house, helping by handing him the tools he would need. Here there is the gratification of your explaining the process…and I can rewind! All good.😊

  3. GREAT VIDEO…AS USUAL!! I was wondering one thing about the overflow level of the bathtub: If you wanted the water depth to be a little higher, could you put the overflow cover on upside down?

  4. Unfortunately you’re run the risk of heating the plastic parts inside the valve. Sorry but Not a good soldering method.
    Also the foam WILL eventually compress and you’ll start running the risk of cracking your tub.

  5. your videos but for 1:18:53 won't be more professional to get a 2 x 4 6 inch long or little more with a whole in it and another one to cover the sink and more with a whole in it, then a 2 way threaded bolt 3 feet long insert thru both whole and sink whole the tension them together
    or use strap with the 2 pieces of wood to tension it to the counter

  6. Why did you not mention the measurement fir the 2 x 4 16 inch support beam behind the shower head and the on off cold hot valve
    At 46:36 in the video when you measure the 15" to center, but you left out the depth to that 2 x 4 , and I have a problem with it. either short or long

  7. You should never ever screw a tub like this through the flange! Great way to crack the fiberglass and create a leak path to the studs. Set the tub in lightweight cement or foam and it will be stable and secure.

  8. A brilliant demonstration. I've got 3 of the exact same metal baths in my house installed 30 years ago, which now all need to come out. I was trying to figure out how to disconnect the waste outlet and now I know. However In my house the walls are solid. The fixed side panel that can't be removed, very difficult to see where leaks are occurring.
    A few pointers. When cutting the copper pipe, the pipe cutter creates a burred edge on the inside edge. This bur should be removed. Some pipe cutters have a special edge to do this part of the job.
    For the threaded joint, I would wrap the PTFE tape 5 times around the thread, not 3 or 2 times as was demonstrated. If this threaded joint leaks the crimped joint might also have to be cut off and remade.
    The Shower controller depth in the wall was not shown how this was done. The wide part of the black mud cap should be in line where the tiled wall will be. There will be a max and min mark on the mud cap. Take a measurement to fix a piece board between the studding to screw the controller to the correct depth in wall.

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